The Iconic Chai Stops of India
Chai is not a beverage in India. It is an occasion. A journey through the most iconic chai stops across the country, from Amritsar to Kolkata.
Chai is more than a beverage for Indians. The drink does not require an occasion. It is in itself an occasion.
Chai is a break, or a celebration. A celebration of a good thing, or just a break from the usual life. And at bad times, again: a break.
It's a constant break that keeps on happening. It's important because that's what is required in our lives, to keep us going. Chai keeps us going.
Map of India showing the iconic chai stops from Amritsar in the north-west to Kolkata in the east
How Chai Changes Across India
When you start from the west of India, you will notice that the chais have a good amount of milk, specifically in Punjab, Haryana, and Rajasthan. I have seen people from these states getting offended that the chai doesn't have enough milk. The amount of milk in chai is directly proportional to the amount of mehmaan nawazi (hospitality).
If you keep going towards the east side of India, the chai keeps getting thinner as the proportions of water and milk start tending towards water.
This doesn't mean anything about the hospitality. While it might be more visible in Punjab and Rajasthan, it is more than the world even in the other parts of India.
As soon as you leave Lucknow and enter Banaras, the chai is super thin.
Chai in homes is a culture, but this is about all the wonderful chai spots in India.
The Trail
Starting at Amritsar in the north, then moving to Rajasthan (Jaipur and the quiet town of Bundi), then towards Uttar Pradesh (Lucknow and Varanasi), and two metro cities fuelled by chai: Hyderabad and Kolkata.
Judge these places for what they represent, not just the chais they serve (which are also amazing, by the way).
- Giani Tea Stall, Amritsar: 7/10, thick elaichi chai and politics on the walls
- Gulab Ji Chai Wale, Jaipur: 7.5/10, since 1946
- Krishna Chai, Bundi: not rated, some places are beyond ratings
- Laxmi Chai Wale, Varanasi: 9/10, the toasts alone are worth the trip
- Cafe Niloufer, Hyderabad: irani chai, osmania biscuits
- Cafe Nimrah, Charminar, Hyderabad: chai with a view of the Charminar
- Sharma Ji Ki Chai, Lucknow: the morning regular
- Sabir Kashmiri Tea, Lucknow: noon chai pyaala in the evenings
- The Culture of Chai in Kolkata: the city runs on bhars
Keep Reading
The Kachori Trail of India
From Jodhpur's puffy pyaaz kachoris to Kolkata's club kachoris, a first-hand map of how kachoris change shape, texture, and soul as you move east across India.
Krishna Chai, Bundi
Five minutes from Bundi Fort, Krishna Ji brews chai to order, sells postcards painted by his brother, and asks Shiva for nothing but happiness. Some places are beyond ratings.
Cafe Niloufer, Hyderabad
Irani chai in a white ceramic cup, osmania biscuits, and a fine biscuit that looks like a palmier. Hyderabad's most iconic chai spot at Lakdi Ka Pul deserves to be as famous as the biryani.