Giani Tea Stall, Amritsar
At Crystal Chowk, Amritsar, since before memory: thick elaichi chai, frothy and served in two glasses, with politics on the walls and bun maska on the side. Rated 7/10.
It's located right at the center of Amritsar (Crystal Chowk) and opens super early in the morning at 4:30am. It's a landmark of its own. All the auto-walas know this place.
The wall at Giani Tea Stall lined with framed photographs of politicians and famous visitors
Once you arrive, you'll see photographs of many famous people on the walls, mostly politicians, along with multiple steel tables.
It's a chai shop where politics has been discussed for years, both by those involved and the common man. Chai pe charcha is a famous term in Hindi: discussions while having chai.
The Chai
The chai you get in Amritsar is thick. Water is added in small portions; milk is in the majority. I love myself a strong milky chai.
The chai at this specific place is elaichi-based and super frothy, thick like other chai places in Amritsar. It's served in two glasses: one to drink from, and one to cool the chai down to a drinkable temperature.
Two glasses of thick, frothy chai at Giani Tea Stall: one for drinking, one for cooling
I have noticed that the drinking temperature of people across India is very different. Some can drink it as soon as the chai comes; some cool it down a bit; some drink it warm. I fall in the category of people who like it slightly warm.
What to Eat Alongside
They have kachoris, samosas, a very popular buttery omelette, and bun maska.
Bun maska (also called bun makkhan, makkhan meaning butter) is a fruit bun to which butter is applied generously. At some places, the OG butter of India, Amul butter, is applied, and at some rare places you'll get white butter (safed makkhan), which is absolutely tasty.
As an accompaniment with my chai, I love a bun maska. The ideal way to eat it: dip it in hot chai as soon as it arrives, and take a big bite. What a feeling.
Amritsar winters are very cold, and chai (any chai) feels even better in winters.
Rating: 7/10. Although it isn't just about the chai. It symbolises what the city of Amritsar is.
Part of the Iconic Chai Stops of India series.
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